Vitamin C, when used topically in a serum, is extensively acclaimed as probably the greatest elements for brightening pores and skin, boosting collagen manufacturing, and defending pores and skin in opposition to environmental harm. It’s so in style that even on the 2024 Medical Spa Present that I attended, vitamin C was an enormous subject of dialog. Nevertheless, not everyone seems to be as constructive about it as you could assume. Whether or not you’re an esthetician, dermatologist, or only a skincare fanatic, you’ve seemingly heard of 1 main downfall in the case of this ingredient: the vitamin C acid burn.
So, what is that this? Sure vitamin C formulation, when utilized to the pores and skin day by day, could cause a burning and stinging sensation, together with redness, pores and skin that’s sizzling to the contact or a basic feeling of irritation. This happens as a result of a topical vitamin C is eliciting a nervous neural response in your pores and skin. As your pores and skin senses publicity, it tries to warn you in opposition to one thing it doesn’t need– on this case, a low pH product. Nevertheless, I don’t consider this facet impact ought to discourage you in opposition to vitamin C completely– let me clarify.
Advantages of Vitamin C In Your Skincare Routine
The addition of a topical vitamin C serum into your skincare routine will be extraordinarily useful on your barrier and enhance general pores and skin well being. Listed here are essentially the most notable the reason why.
- Brightens Pores and skin Tone
- Possible essentially the most revered profit, vitamin C lessens pigment manufacturing in pores and skin, making it look brighter.
- Boosts Collagen Manufacturing
- Not solely does this ingredient assist defend the collagen you have already got by inhibiting enzymes that usually break it down, however it additionally aids in more healthy collagen manufacturing.
- Protects Towards Environmental Harm
- Vitamin C’s highly effective antioxidant properties neutralize free radicals and defend the pores and skin from harm brought on by UV radiation, air pollution, and different environmental stressors.
- Enhances Pores and skin Hydration
- This ingredient has additionally been proven to have moisturizing properties, serving to enhance hydration ranges and plump pores and skin.
Understanding Vitamin C Sensitivity
Let’s resolve why this painful burning and stinging sensation generally happens– and what you are able to do about it!
Why Does Vitamin C Burn or Sting?
The burning sensation is mostly brought on by three issues:
- A extremely low pH. Low pH ranges of two.5-3.5 can probably irritate the pores and skin. They’ll enhance the acidity of a serum, resulting in a compromised barrier and the next potential for stinging, particularly for delicate pores and skin.
- A excessive amount of ascorbic acid. This ingredient must have a minimal of 8% to have any efficacy in pores and skin. At round 22%, the pores and skin stops having the ability to take in it. So most of those vitamin C serums that sting have a low pH and excessive amount of ascorbic acid. This acid is a really small molecule, so it could simply get into the pores and skin and disrupt its pure pH stability.
- A compromised barrier or latest use of actives. Individuals who use lively elements (retinol, retinoids, exfoliating acids, and so on.) and folks with compromised limitations usually tend to really feel a stinging sensation. It is because whenever you use exfoliating acids or retinoids, you expertise numerous pores and skin turnover, that means that the pores and skin on high is extra uncooked and uncovered. If you have already got a lowered barrier and proceed to make use of vitamin C, you received’t have sufficient lipids in your pores and skin to assist defend it from a product with a low pH. That is going to trigger a extra damaging expertise, and in flip, can truly result in extra irritation.
Don’t Give Up – There’s a Resolution!
Simply because you could be coping with a vitamin C acid burn, doesn’t imply it’s a must to forego the ingredient completely. There are nonetheless methods to obtain the entire advantages of vitamin C– with out the acid burn! Let’s talk about.
- What to keep away from
- Low-pH Merchandise: These can result in long-term irritation within the pores and skin, inflicting accelerated indicators of growing older and elevated pigmentation (as soon as your physique receives a sign that there’s irritation, elevated pigment manufacturing might happen). Search for formulation with a ph vary of 5.0-5.8. A good model ought to let you know the pH if it’s not publicly listed.
- A No-Ache-No-Achieve Philosophy: In contrast to retinol, ache (ie stinging) isn’t an indication of vitamin C efficacy however could possibly be an indication of irritation.
- Vitamin C Sandwiching: Whereas a retinol sandwich is a good way to obtain the entire potent advantages of a retinoid with none of the dryness, flaking, or irritation, the identical can’t be stated for this ingredient. When sandwiching a vitamin C serum between two layers of moisturizer, it truly simply impedes the flexibility of the ascorbic acid, relatively than minimizing the potential unintended effects of vitamin C.
- What to do
- Search for Alternate options: There are many vitamin C kinds utilized in skincare, and which one you select undoubtedly issues. In case you are experiencing a vitamin C acid burn, it’s time to search for a extra steady formulation. Maintain studying to find out which one is best for you!
Discovering Stability
Looking for out a steady vitamin C is the easiest way to keep away from a vitamin C acid burn, however what precisely does this entail?
What Does A “Steady Vitamin C” Imply?
Whenever you hear {that a} type of vitamin C is “steady,” this refers back to the capacity of the product to take care of its effectiveness over time and publicity to air, mild, and temperature. A steady vitamin C will sometimes keep its efficiency longer, be much less susceptible to oxidization, and can seemingly comprise supporting elements that enhance efficacy.
Ever observed your white or beige serum start to show yellow or mild brown? This implies the product has turn into unstable and begun to oxidize, that means you might be not receiving the whole lot of its supposed advantages.
It’s necessary to notice that all skincare elements finally expire, even essentially the most steady of vitamin C serums. Be sure you use it earlier than you lose it!
Why Do Vitamin C Formulations Matter?
Choosing the proper vitamin C remedy could appear a bit sophisticated, however since vitamin C doesn’t all the time work the identical, it’s necessary to grasp their variations. Vitamin C formulations matter as a result of they will vastly influence the steadiness, effectiveness, and general efficiency of the vitamin C product. Components reminiscent of lively versus inactive types of vitamin C, pH worth, further elements, and even texture, scent, and general really feel can vastly have an effect on how your pores and skin responds to a particular product.
What Makes Vitamin C&E Therapy Totally different?
What’s nice about Vitamin C&E Therapy is that it doesn’t use excessive portions of ascorbic acid and it has a extra skin-friendly pH. Utilizing each lipid and water-soluble types of vitamin C, this serum offers potent antioxidant exercise deep throughout the epidermal layers.
Using tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD), this skin-brightening cream ensures a slower launch time than water-soluble molecules, that means an extended window of lively vitamin C and a decrease potential for irritation. If you happen to’re seeking to profit from all the advantages of vitamin C with not one of the burn, this long-time best-seller is the one for you.
Suggestions for Selecting Steady Vitamin C Merchandise
As intimidating as it could be, strive to not be discouraged by the huge array of vitamin C merchandise available on the market. Listed here are a number of suggestions for avoiding the ache and discovering the proper serum for you.
Ingredient Verify
In terms of frequent types of vitamin C in skincare, there are 4 that come to thoughts: L-ascorbic Acid, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate, and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate. Right here’s how they differ.
- L-ascorbic acid: Regardless of being a tried and true ingredient, this isn’t your finest wager in the case of antioxidant safety. The one lively type of vitamin C, L-ascorbic acid is extremely unstable and, because it’s an antioxidant, it needs to react with virtually all the things in its surroundings. This implies this ingredient has a excessive likelihood of oxidizing earlier than it will get an opportunity to make it into your pores and skin.
- Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: An ideal choice for pores and skin sorts that wrestle from breakouts, this has been confirmed to assist enhance pimples, however can nonetheless be fairly reactive.
- Ascorbyl Methylsilanol Pectinate: A fancy mix of many compounds relatively than only a simple vitamin C by-product, this type has been proven to strengthen the membrane of pores and skin cells and have improved supply into pores and skin.
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate: That is certainly one of my private favorites (and the star ingredient in Vitamin C&E Therapy) as it’s the solely oil-soluble type of vitamin C that I’ve talked about to date. Due to this, it received’t react till it comes into contact with the oils in your pores and skin, making it essentially the most steady type of these 4. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate can be recognized to penetrate pores and skin 20x greater than ascorbic acid!
Packaging Issues
As I discussed, vitamin C serums will be extremely unstable, reacting to virtually all the things from mild and warmth to oxygen, water, and metals. That is why product packaging could make all of the distinction.
This ingredient must be packed in opaque or tinted bottles that defend the product from mild publicity, as mild, particularly UV mild, could cause it to degrade and turn into much less efficient. Ideally, the product also needs to have an airless pump to reduce air publicity, maintaining the serum contemporary longer. Each of those will even cut back the chance of contamination, making certain it could ship its desired results to the pores and skin.
Vitamin C Utility Methods for Snug Use
Wish to begin your journey towards the perfect vitamin C for you however nervous in regards to the penalties? Right here’s the easiest way to get began!
Patch Testing
Whereas looking for the correct vitamin C product for you, it could take a little bit of trial and error– however you don’t need to destroy your pores and skin barrier within the meantime. At any time when anybody is making an attempt out a brand new product, the very first thing I do is advocate a patch check. Apply vitamin C to your neck (the place pores and skin is essentially the most delicate) to assist decide what sorts of merchandise or elements will trigger a damaging or allergic response in your face. It will assist slender down which skincare product or ingredient to check out sooner or later.
In conclusion, whereas vitamin C is a extremely praised skincare ingredient recognized for its capacity to brighten pores and skin, increase collagen manufacturing, and defend in opposition to environmental harm, some individuals might expertise the dreaded vitamin C acid burn. This burning or stinging sensation will be attributed to components reminiscent of low pH ranges, excessive concentrations of ascorbic acid, or a compromised pores and skin barrier. Nevertheless, I don’t assume this could deter you from reaping the advantages of vitamin C. By understanding the causes of sensitivity and selecting steady formulations, you may incorporate vitamin C into your skincare routines successfully and comfortably. With the correct strategy, vitamin C generally is a precious addition to any skincare routine, selling more healthy, extra radiant-looking pores and skin.
I hope you discovered this put up informative! And as all the time, #obeyrenee
Superstar Esthetician & Skincare Knowledgeable
As an esthetician skilled in beauty chemistry, Renée Rouleau has spent 30 years researching pores and skin, educating her viewers, and constructing an award-winning line of merchandise. Her hands-on expertise as an esthetician and trusted skincare knowledgeable has created a real-world resolution — merchandise which are formulated for 9 several types of pores and skin so your face will get precisely what it must feel and look its finest. Trusted by celebrities, editors, bloggers, and skincare obsessives across the globe, her huge real-world data and fixed analysis are why Marie Claire calls her “essentially the most passionate pores and skin practitioner we all know.”