French authorities warn about potential dangers of glyoxylic acid in hair merchandise

4 reported circumstances of acute renal failure following the appliance of so-called “Brazilian straightening” merchandise containing glyoxylic acid, have led the French authorities — the Nationwide Company for Meals, Environmental and Occupational Well being Security (ANSES), the Common Directorate for Competitors, Client Affairs and Fraud Management (DGCCRF) and the Common Directorate for Well being (DGS) — to suggest not utilizing them, as a matter of “precaution”.

4 reported circumstances

The circumstances have been reported between January and August 2024. The 4 folks involved have been aged 28 to 42 and “recovered following therapy” in native hospitals, mentioned France’s ANSES. The company additionally mentioned it has launched an experience on the renal toxicity of glyoxylic acid when utilized in hair functions. At the moment, the European cosmetics regulation doesn’t restricts the use for this ingredient. Glyoxylic acid is usually used as an alternative choice to formaldehyde, which has been categorized as carcinogenic since 2013. Amongst different capabilities, glyoxylic acid permits the curling or straightening of hair.

The 4 French circumstances occurred after software of straightening merchandise in a hair salon.

When glyoxylic acid “passes into the bloodstream by way of the scalp”, it might probably “rework into calcium oxalate crystals”, which is able to trigger kidney harm, defined to AFP Dr. Juliette Bloch, director of well being alerts and vigilance on the French company.

“It is extremely seemingly that different circumstances have gone unreported: generally, ingesting water will eradicate the crystals, so they are going to stay unnoticed. And even when there was kidney failure identified within the hours that observe, one could not make the connection,” she continued. “The aim of our alert is that individuals give it some thought.”

Hair salons and people are subsequently suggested to not use these merchandise and cosmetics shops are shouldn’t promote them, pending the conclusions of the ANSES experience, which is predicted to be launched on the finish of 2024.

Within the occasion of indicators of kidney failure – stomach or decrease again ache, nausea and/or vomiting – a couple of hours after making use of a hair product containing glyoxylic acid, it is strongly recommended to “seek the advice of a health care provider shortly or name a poison management centre” and point out this use, warns the company.

Scientific evaluation

“About twenty circumstances have been reported in Israel lately, the identical as what has been noticed in France,” mentioned Sandrine Charles, cosmetics mission supervisor at ANSES, “and one in Switzerland.”

In June, the French Academy of Drugs really useful, in mild of scientific articles, to “ship warning and data messages to well being professionals, hair salons and cosmetics shops.” Insisting on “a well being danger that could possibly be underestimated, as a result of it’s unknown,” the organisation harassed “the significance of not performing hair straightening within the occasion of scalp lesions, which will increase the penetration of glyoxylic acid.”

Regardless of “suspicions concerning the toxicity of glyoxylic acid”, “present parts don’t permit definitive conclusions to be drawn and remind the significance to observe the directions and precautions to be used” said FEBEA, the French commerce affiliation representing beauty product producers in France, on Wednesday, October 16.

In keeping with FEBEA, you will need to solely apply these merchandise to a wholesome scalp, with none lesions, and to hunt assist from a educated hairdressing skilled.

French cosmetics big L’Oréal, mentioned AFP that it doesn’t “add glyoxylic acid as an ingredient in any of its merchandise, in any market on the planet.”

Relying on its conclusions, the evaluation undertaken by ANSES could lead France to suggest an shift within the European regulatory texts governing beauty merchandise.