Making Up The Star of *Emilia Pérez*

Make-up artist Vincent Oquendo is fairly positive he and hairstylist Marc Mena manifested working with actress Karla Sofía Gascón, the star of this yr’s Golden Globe favourite, Emilia Pérez. “Again when Marc and I have been working collectively on the Cannes Movie Competition with Lily Gladstone, I already had Karla on my radar as a result of I had learn the synopsis for Emilia Pérez and thought it sounded out of this world,” he says. “It’s directed by Jacques Audiard and in addition options Zoe Saldana and Selena Gomez. I had a sense it could be an enormous one—I’m a bit witchy typically—so I despatched my agent an e mail about Karla. I wrote, ‘She’s a trans actress. I actually need to assist her. I don’t care if there’s any cash concerned.’” This Friday, Oquendo and Mena adopted the actress to Palm Springs for the opening night time of the Palm Springs Worldwide Movie Competition, the place the Emilia Pérez solid acquired the Vanguard Award. Right here, the make-up artist walks us via Gascón’s look.

“After I go to movie festivals, I look via the entire movies which are in competitors. I search for the solid. I learn the entire articles. It’s a privilege to have the ability to create a search for somebody who I discover extremely inspiring. Karla’s efficiency in Emilia Pérez is simply so trustworthy. She’s simply insanely magnetic on display.

Freddy Alonso styled Karla on this very attractive, off-the-shoulder, drapey quantity from Vivienne Westwood, so I wished to go for la dolce vita vibes with some edge along with her make-up. However first, I prepped her pores and skin. I like Dr. Dennis Gross’s LED masks so I began off with that. I used the Jillian Dempsey Gold Bar on her, too. It actually will get circulation going and makes the pores and skin look actually alive. It’s additionally actually stress-free. Whereas that’s occurring, I had her put on Goop Magnificence’s Carry + Depuff eye masks. Then it was time for Beau Domaine’s moisturizing cream. It smells so pretty, however I additionally love how make-up grips to it—and it’s not too emollient so it gained’t make merchandise separate. Lumify’s Illuminations eye cream can be nice as a result of it has a comfortable glow that makes the underneath eyes actually luminous, which is the dream for a crimson carpet. Oh, and since Karla’s taking so many flights and is at all times on the go, I put one drop of Lumify’s eye drops in every eye, too.

Relating to make-up, it’s all in regards to the brushes for me; they’re the important thing to a extremely lovely base. Anisa’s are my go-to. They’re artificial and certain so fantastically. I used the Ambient basis in 8 from Hourglass and buffed it in with Anisa’s Pinnacle basis brush. I like to make use of the identical brush to stipple on concealer—I used Touche Éclat in 4.5 and Hourglass Vanish Airbrush in 7.5 on Karla. Then I took Anisa’s Eye Fan brush, which is admittedly meant for eyeshadow, to cover any blemishes or darkness or to spotlight particular areas. I like how a lot management it provides you and it has a dome form that principally does the entire mixing.

I used Uncommon Magnificence’s Keep Susceptible blush in Practically Mauve, which has glorious colour payoff, and Heat Needs bronzer stick in Completely satisfied Sol to contour. Anisa has this fabulous new angled cream brush that makes this really easy. I like to use every little thing in layers to create this actually lovely depth, so I’ll swipe it on, mix, and repeat.

In the event you’ve seen Emilia Pérez, you understand Karla’s eyes have this lovely twinkle to them. I at all times attempt to emphasize them whereas maintaining them easy. I rimmed her eyes, each prime and backside, with Victoria Beckham Magnificence’s Satin Kajal liner in Ash, a type of grey, earlier than I smudged it and smoked it out throughout her lids. Then I took Bronze, a shimmery shade, and did a good line. I used it on the internal nook of her eyes, as effectively. Earlier than mascara—I like Victoria Beckham Magnificence’s Future Lash as a result of it’s fairly water resistant and by no means bleeds—I always remember to curve the lashes. Particularly with my extra mature purchasers, I discover that is so necessary to offer you an instantaneous bright-eyed look. The Tweezerman roller is my tremendous favourite as a result of it provides you a curl with out having to work too arduous. That’s the primary factor: You don’t need to must press so arduous in your lashes that you just danger damaging them.

Karla likes her pure lip colour, so I identical to to play it up a bit. I went for Revlon’s tinted lip balm in Nude Illuminator, a sheer pink-y shade, and no lip liner—however I did spotlight the bow of her lips with Uncommon Magnificence’s highlighter in Flaunt, which I like to use with my pinky finger.

I at all times use One/Measurement’s On ‘Til Daybreak setting spray to complete off a glance. Make-up actually doesn’t budge while you use this. It’s additionally semi mattifying, which I personally actually like since you don’t need to fear about your purchasers trying shiny. It’s a make-up artist’s dream.”

—As informed to Daise Bedolla

Pictures courtesy of Vincent Oquendo