Cosmetics

Key findings for product innovation

Key findings for product innovation
19
Jan

Researchers from a number of Brazilian establishments have printed a brand new examine inspecting eight revolutionary hair straightening formulations geared toward offering safer, more practical choices for various hair sorts and situations.

The examine, titled “Comparative Assessments of New Hair-Straightening Beauty Formulations on Wavy Kind 2 Hair,” seems within the scientific journal Cosmetics and was carried out by scientists from the College of São Paulo, UNESP, and the Superior Analysis Middle in Medication (CEPAM) at UNILAGO.

The examine evaluated formulations containing lively components resembling ammonium thioglycolate, amino methyl propanol (AMP) thioglycolate, and sodium cysteamine, evaluating their efficiency on virgin, bleached, and chemically processed hair. The researchers sought to handle key trade challenges, together with the necessity for straightening merchandise that modify hair texture with out compromising its integrity.

Addressing a rising shopper pattern towards pure hair

The examine highlighted a key problem within the cosmetics trade: the rising demand for hair straightening merchandise that work successfully on extremely resistant hair textures with out inflicting injury.

“The previous decade has seen a shopper motion to return to pure hair,” the researchers famous. This shift has introduced new challenges for salon professionals and product formulators, significantly as extra people with Kind 3 (curly) and Kind 4 (tight curly) hair search texture modifications.

To satisfy this demand, the researchers developed eight formulations utilizing completely different mixtures and concentrations of lively components, every tailor-made to particular hair sorts.

“Hair straighteners are among the many most technically complicated merchandise to be safely and successfully developed,” the examine said. The researchers aimed to create new formulations that present focused efficiency whereas sustaining hair well being by rigorously controlling pH ranges, polymeric associations, and lively ingredient concentrations.

The examine in contrast eight formulations, every with particular lively components and supposed hair sorts:

  • Ammonium Thioglycolate (G03 and G04): These formulations, containing 13.3% and 9.4% ammonium thioglycolate, respectively, have been discovered to be efficient on wavy (Kind 2) hair. Ammonium thioglycolate has been used as a straightening agent for the reason that Thirties, and up to date developments in polymeric associations have enhanced its efficiency whereas lowering injury.
  • Amino Methyl Propanol (AMP) Thioglycolate (G05 and G06): AMP thioglycolate, patented as BR 10 2013 017,342 8–INPI, was examined in concentrations of 12.5% and seven.9%. These formulations are really useful for finer or chemically processed hair as a result of their gentler motion, which minimizes cuticle dilation and reduces injury.
  • Sodium Cysteamine (G07 and G08): Sodium cysteamine formulations containing 5% and 4% lively ingredient concentrations have been discovered to be handiest for curly and tight curly hair (Varieties 3 and 4). The researchers noticed enhancements in hair fiber diameter, tensile power, and luster. These formulations additionally confirmed lowered reliance on warmth instruments throughout software.
  • Mixture of Ammonium Thioglycolate and Sodium Thioglycolate (G09 and G10): The examine explored formulations combining 2% and 1% of ammonium thioglycolate with sodium thioglycolate. This mixture enhanced product penetration into extra resistant hair fibers, making it appropriate for wavy or curly hair with medium-to-coarse textures.

Key findings: Security and effectiveness of recent formulations

The researchers used varied strategies to evaluate the protection and effectiveness of the formulations, together with mechanical and thermal resistance testing, fluorescence microscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), and hair shine measurements.

One of many examine’s important findings was that every one eight formulations achieved efficient hair straightening whereas sustaining security. “All formulations have been assessed and proved to be secure and efficient for hair straightening, with completely different behaviors regarding some assessed parameters,” the researchers wrote.

Hair samples handled with ammonium thioglycolate demonstrated higher alignment and shine than virgin hair. In the meantime, sodium cysteamine formulations produced important texture modifications in curly and tight curly hair sorts with out extreme reliance on warmth instruments.

Thermal evaluation outcomes confirmed that sodium cysteamine formulations altered the construction of intermediate hair fibers at larger temperatures, contributing to their effectiveness on extremely resistant hair.

The examine additionally assessed hair porosity and cuticle injury utilizing SEM imaging. The researchers discovered that larger concentrations of lively components led to elevated hair permeation and structural modifications.

Bleached hair samples confirmed essentially the most important cuticle injury, corroborating earlier analysis that bleaching causes important structural weakening. Nevertheless, the researchers noticed that formulations with decrease lively ingredient concentrations—resembling AMP thioglycolate—supplied a protecting impact by limiting cuticle dilation.

Fluorescence microscopy revealed that straighteners with larger pH values, resembling sodium cysteamine, achieved deeper penetration into hair fibers, leading to extra pronounced structural modifications.

Conclusions and trade influence

The examine concluded that polymeric associations—used to manage the discharge of lively components—performed a decisive function in attaining efficient hair straightening whereas minimizing injury.

“Creating secure and efficient hair straighteners is a big problem for the beauty trade,” the researchers said. “These merchandise should modify hair texture with minimal injury.”

In the end, the examine offers a roadmap for creating next-generation hair straighteners that ship focused outcomes for numerous hair sorts.

The analysis obtained no exterior funding, although Grandha Skilled Hair Care donated supplies. Further assist for testing was offered by the College of São Paulo’s DEINFAR Laboratory and the IPclin Group—Built-in Scientific Analysis Institute Ltd.

Supply: Cosmetics

2024, 11, 222. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11060222

“Comparative Assessments of New Hair-Straightening Beauty Formulations on Wavy Kind 2 Hair.”

Authors: Junior, C.M., et al.