French perfume model Ex Nihilo embarks on a brand new development section

For Ex Nihilo, L Catterton’s backing, following its acquisition of Eurazeo’s minority stake in January, comes amid a interval of sturdy momentum, with the model having doubled in measurement over the previous two years. The problem now’s to maintain this fast development. “With its deep experience within the sector, distribution, and information — particularly in the US — L Catterton is a key strategic companion for Ex Nihilo’s growth,” notes Benoît Verdier.

A retail community in full growth

Because of L Catterton, the model now advantages from an skilled pool of advisors, which it may well leverage to realize simpler entry to main American department shops. To maintain this development, Ex Nihilo goals to keep up a stability between growth and exclusivity.

“Whereas we’ve been current in retailers corresponding to Saks and Bergdorf Goodman for over a decade, we at the moment are seeking to broaden our footprint via a fastidiously curated collection of department shops and idea shops, consistent with our luxurious positioning — corresponding to The Webster and Luckyscent,” explains Benoît Verdier. Immediately, Ex Nihilo operates 80 factors of sale in the US, together with 40 department shops. In January 2026, whole retail gross sales (personal boutiques and wholesale distribution) approached EUR 115 million within the US (roughly EUR 100 million). By 2028, the model goals to achieve 200 factors of sale throughout all channels.

Ex Nihilo at the moment operates a number of standalone boutiques, notably in Paris, Los Angeles, and Hong Kong, with a reopening deliberate at Dubai Mall. Backed by L Catterton, the model additionally intends to determine a presence in London and open three flagship shops in the US — New York, Florida, and Texas — by 2028.

In Paris, the pop-up at 326 rue Saint-Honoré will turn into a everlasting boutique in July 2026, changing the model’s historic location at 352. Ex Nihilo additionally operates a second handle on rue François 1er and is anticipated to ultimately unveil a 3rd Parisian location.

After La Samaritaine after which Galeries Lafayette – the place it’ll have a central show beneath the dome in June – Ex Nihilo will open a store-in-store at Le Bon Marché in April. “This marks an actual change of scale,” explains Benoît Verdier.

Concerning geographic growth, the chief famous that “the US and Europe stay prime priorities.” The Center East continues to be a key market regardless of ongoing geopolitical uncertainties; the model has been established there for over a decade and advantages from a loyal buyer base. In the meantime, Asia represents a significant development driver, the place the model already has a powerful foothold — significantly in Korea, the place the Blue Talisman and Lust In Paradise fragrances are experiencing notable success.

To sustainably help this worldwide growth, L Catterton’s backing additionally permits the model to strengthen its groups. “A key factor of the partnership,” based on Verdier.

Digital retail is one other main problem. On this space, L Catterton’s information experience is proving invaluable.

Highlighting bestsellers

On the product facet, Ex Nihilo is prioritizing a simplification technique, specializing in its flagship fragrances. For instance, Fleur Narcotique and Blue Talisman at the moment are obtainable as Extraits. “We’re additionally launching the Lust In Paradise Extrait on April 1st,” provides Benoît Verdier. “Moreover, we are going to unveil an exquisite new product in September, as we do yearly, as a result of we at all times try to refresh our best-sellers.”

In parallel, Ex Nihilo continues to discover new codecs, together with restricted editions, collaborations, and “digital drops.” These online-exclusive releases — usually tied to a particular metropolis or created in collaboration with an artist—can be found for a really restricted time. The technique has confirmed extremely profitable: “all of the items promote out inside only a few hours,” confirms Verdier.

Creativity and repair

“As an investor, L Catterton offers us full artistic freedom,” affirms the founder. Ex Nihilo continues its collaboration with Givaudan, notably with a core group of loyal perfumers, together with Louise Turner and Jordi Fernandez. The model additionally goals to proceed collaborating with rising skills, following within the footsteps of its early partnership with Quentin Bisch on Fleur Narcotique, and extra not too long ago with Gaël Montero on Chandigarh Categorical.

Personalization, utilizing the Osmologue, stays a significant strategic focus that the model goals to strengthen. It performs a key position within the enchantment of its personal shops and is proving highly regarded with youthful generations in search of singularity.

Ex Nihilo’s DNA is rooted in a real tradition of service, enhanced by L Catterton’s data-driven experience. Every personalised bottle is assigned a novel quantity, enabling the model to trace particular person preferences. The home additionally presents in-store masterclasses, whereas a non-public house on the coronary heart of its flagship on Rue Saint-Honoré welcomes purchasers in an unique setting. As well as, Ex Nihilo supplies a bespoke perfume creation service, developed in collaboration with a Grasp Perfumer chosen alongside the consumer, following an in-depth olfactory session.